CAPTAIN BEN JOYCE, FROM BOSTON TO ALASKA

 

Captain Benjamin Joyce,
(1879-1971)
Life long mariner.
Photograph dated 1952.
Reports of an interview below
by Seattle's Lucile MacDonald.
Original photo from the archives of the 
Saltwater People Historical Society©

When the historical writer, Lucile McDonald interviewed Capt. Ben Joyce for this essay in 1967, it had been 70 years since he had left home in Boston for a 14,300-mile voyage to St. Michael, Alaska, in a 122 ft halibut fishing boat.
        Around Seattle, it would be hard to find another old salt who could match this cruise through two hemispheres in so small a craft.
        Once upon a time, such voyages were fairly common, but most of the men who made them are long since gone. Captain Joyce began young, otherwise, he wouldn't be around to tell the tale.
        "in 1897, l was an office boy in Boston when we heard news of the big Klondike gold strike. No one knew where the Klondike was, but every young man wanted to go. The story of the arrival of the steamship Portland in Seattle with a ton of gold on board didn't lose any in the telling. I was 17 and I got gold fever with the rest."
        Joyce came from a line of sea captains and the tradition has been handed down to his sons, Capts. Emory and Ben Joyce Jr., and his grandson, Lieut. Comdr. Ben Joyce, in the Coast Guard, and Capt. Walter Hoopala, on a Foss tugboat in Vietnam.
        At the time when the first young Ben got itchy feet, his father, Capt. Hanson B. Joyce was employed by the New England Fish Co. as the supervisor of fishermen. He had been going to West Coast halibut fishing each winter since 1892, and returning home for the summers because there were no facilities for shipping fish across the continent in warm weather.
        In the spring of 1897, he was sent to Camden, M.J., to supervise construction of a new steam fishing boat, the NEW ENGLAND specially designed for catching halibut in the North Pacific. He was to see that it was the most efficient type for the work.
        "She looked like a towboat with two masts, Capt. Ben explained. She never used the sails, but had them for emergencies.
        "We wrote to father in Camden and told him I wanted to go to the gold rush. He said he'd do what he could to help me. He got me a job as a fireman on the NEW ENGLAND.
        When the steamer was finished, my father high-tailed it overland in December to the West Coast, this time taking Mother, my two sisters, and a brother along. This gave me family connections to come to.
        Young Ben went to Camden and joined the NEW ENGLAND to help take her to Boston.
         "On the way, the chief engineer decided I'd never make a fireman in this world or the next. I was called on the carpet by the president of the company. He told me they'd have to make an ordinary seaman out of me. The crew already was filled when they found another fireman, so I went as deckman, meaning I was available to do anything. There were 18 of us on board.
        We left Boston December 23 in bad weather and had to lie in at Woods Hole. From there to St. Thomas in the Virgin Islands was a nonstop run. We went in for coal and then left for Rio de Janeiro. We were sweeping the bunkers for fuel before we got in.
        I was shoveling coal most of the time that trip; the sailors had to move it to where it was within reach of the firemen. We had coal all over that boat, in the fish holds, and stacked on the deck. It had to be that way because the stops were few and far between.
        The weather was mostly fine all the way from Woods Hole to the Strait of Magellan. 

The INDEPENDANT
Landing halibut at Seattle, WA.
Postcard from the archives of the 
Saltwater People Historical Society 

We coaled again at Montevideo. We never went into any of these cities because of the shipping congestion. The coal always was lightered out to us and we'd be on our way as quickly as we could.
        We made the entrance of the Strait of Magellan at night and anchored until morning as there were no navigation lights in the passage. We'd gone into the Strait several hours when we saw a ship that looked to be on the beach. The captain thought she needed assistance, so we went over to her and found she was a Boston fishing schooner heading for Alaska.
        She was full of fishermen with gold fever. She needed no help; she was waiting for the wind. We visited with them all that day –– it was Sunday–– and we were under way the next morning and out of the strait that night into a storm on the West Coast. By then, we'd got all the deck coal down into the hold, where the firemen could handle it, so we made out all right."
         The next stops were at Talcahuano, Chile, and Callao, Peru, to refuel. Captain Joyce said by then he was "coal sick." He'd handled so much of it, along with the ash sent up in buckets and dumped overboard. Then on to San Francisco. The saving feature of the voyage was good food.
        The New England arrived at Vancouver, B.C. in March, almost three months to a day, from the Boston departure. Joyce's father was there to meet him, having just finished the halibut fishing season. He took over command of the boat for the rest of the voyage.
        "We were in Vancouver only about two days and then left for Seattle to pick up a tow of two river steamers for the Yukon. They were the ROCK ISLAND I and II."
        We used the Inside Passage when we could and headed for Dutch Harbor, where we fueled again and father arranged to tow two more river steamers to St. Michael after we delivered the pair we had.
        On the trip back from St. Michael, I had a new job – dishwasher and flunky. On the way north again, I was cook. I've done about everything."
        The NEW ENGLAND began halibut fishing out of Vancouver in the fall. Capt. Joyce became captain of her in 1912 and left her in 1916 for bigger vessels.
        Did he ever get to the gold rush?
        "Yes, I had to get that out of my system. It took five weeks. I went to the Atlin, sluiced about a month on Pine Creek, and got a few specks of gold dust in the bottom of a pill bottle."
        Joyce fished with his father on the NEW ENGLAND. She carried 12 dories and 24 fishermen They employed 350 hooks to a string and one day caught more than 200,000 pounds of halibut.
        "At first we hoisted them aboard by the tails, but that was too slow for father. He put cargo nets in the dories and hoisted them out full in one lift.
        The company allowed a fisherman 25 cents a fish when I began. Later we were getting 1.25 cents a pound. We worked sometimes from daylight to dark in the dories.
        The NEW ENGLAND was sold for junk late in the 1930s. Captain Joyce retired in 1955, but he still carried his steamboat license, the oldest one on the Pacific Coast.

Above words by Lucile MacDonald, Historian/ Author. Published by the Seattle Times. 1967.

Capt. Benjamin Irving Joyce (L)
and son, Capt. Emery Joyce
Celebrating the 91st  birthday 
of Capt. Benjamin.
Original photo from the archives of 
the Saltwater People Historical Society©

Many guests of honor had ridden with the captain on ships of the old Alaska Steamship Co passenger fleet. Joyce, who was born on an island off Maine, did most of his sailing out of Seattle. He received his masters papers in 1902 and was the oldest licensed master on the West Coast. The last time it was renewed, in 1965, the Coast Guard officer who signed it was Capt. Emory Joyce, one of three sons who became captains. 

The celebration was at the home of Emory Joyce, now a Puget Sound pilot.

Text by Jay Wells, from the Seattle Times. Published February 1970.

A NOTABLE DAY IN SAN JUAN HISTORY

 IMPRESSIVE EXERCISES AT AMERICAN AND BRITISH CAMPS

U.S. Monitor Wyoming 
with 200 officers and men 
even came back for the
 unveiling party. 
Click image to enlarge.
Antique postcard from the archives 
of the Saltwater People Log©

"The unveiling of the monuments at the American and British military camps, October 21, 1904, was a most notable occasion not only in the history of the county but of the PNW. The day was perfect and not a single incident occurred to detract from the pleasure of the exercises at either camp. 

Never before since the termination of the joint occupancy has there been so large a representation of the army and navy in the county, nor so large an assemblage of prominent people within its borders. If it were possible, or practicable, to assemble all the people of the county together in one place a vote of thanks would be unanimously tendered to the University Historical Society for having erected such appropriate monuments to make two of the most historical spots in the northwest.  Prof Meany, is the society's able and energetic secretary. 

Capt. Pickett was commander at American Camp. His cottage was removed to Friday Harbor after the termination of the joint occupancy and has ever since been the home of the well-known pioneer, Capt. Edward D. Warbass, who was Capt. Pickett's friend and companion for a number of years. 

Home of Capt. Delacombe and family.
He was the commander of the British Marines,
San Juan Island, WA.
Click the image to enlarge.
A low-res scan of an original gelatin-silver 
photograph from the archives of the 
Saltwater People Historial Society©

Today we publish a picture of the more spacious residence of the commander at English Camp, showing Capt. Delacombe and his family on the porch. We understand that the captain is still living and for some years past he has occupied the position of high constable at Derby, England. The building was destroyed by fire about ten years ago. It occupied a most beautiful location on a wooded hill above Garrison Bay, overlooking the Canal de Haro and the Strait of Juan de Fuca. The monument erected Oct. 21 now marks the site. 

Following the program of exercises as they took place at the two camps:

AMERICAN CAMP

March from shore of Griffin Bay to American Camp.
Music by the artillery band.

"The United States Army," by Capt. McCloskey, commanding the troops from the Puget Sound artillery district.

Address by Hon. Geroge H. Williams, the present mayor of Portland, read by Prof. Maynard Lee Daggy, of the University of Washington.

Music by the artillery band.

BRITISH CAMP

March from the shore of Garrison Bay to British Camp.

Presiding officer––Judge Cornelius H. Hanford, of the United States district court. 

Unveiling of the monument: music by the Puget Sound artillery band––"America" or "God Save the King."

National salute by U.S.S. Wyoming.

Address of welcome by Rev. C.C. Pratt, of Friday Harbor.

"First United States Customs Officer at San Juan. After the Arbitration Decision," by Mr. Frank H. Winslow, president of the Washington Pioneers' Association. 

Letter from Gen. Hazard Stevens, special commissioner under President Grant to adjust claims by British landholders on the San Juan Islands, read by I. A. Nadeau, of Seattle.

Music by the artillery band. 

Greetings from Wisconsin State Historical Society by President Robert I. McCormick.

Address by Hon. Bernard Pelly, British vice-consul at Seattle.

Benediction by Rev. R.I. Bussabarger, of Seattle. 

March to the shore with music by the artillery band.

Source: Text from the San Juan Islander, 29 October, 1904."

LOG OF THE M.V. INDIAN – 1948

 

The M.V. INDIAN
dated 23 May 1948, 
home dock, Seattle, WA.
One or both Spring brothers 
 were on board the Indian for this trip
north and caught this shot 
of the waterfront at 5:30 a.m.
Click image to enlarge.
Original photo signed by
Bob and Ira Spring,
from the archives of the 
Saltwater People Historical Society.©

"Fifty-two ports along the 2,000 miles of Puget Sound shoreline receive regular calls from a small fleet of freight boats, and another 50 had docks at which occasional stops were made. The boats traveled south to Olympia and Shelton, and north to Bellingham and Powell River, B.C. There were six boats in the fleet, the Indian, Lovejoy, Seatac, Belana, Warrior, and Skookum Chief. The third name is derived from Seattle and Tacoma and the fourth name from Bellingham and Anacortes. The freight boats were of shallow draft. Most of them had a large lower deck that ran the full length and width of the boat. The freight was loaded on small sleds at the warehouses. These sleds were carried aboard by gasoline-driven lift trucks and placed on the long, lower deck. At the ports, the process reversed, the freight-laden sleds carried off to the docks. The boats carried crews of 12, including the skipper, other officers, deckhands, lift-truck drivers, and last but far from least important, the cook. 

Want to take a trip on one of these boats? Here is a sample log of the motor vessel Indian on one of its trips to Bellingham and the San Juan Islands, Washington State.

Monday, May 23 1948

5:30 a.m. left Pier 53, home dock in Seattle, loaded with general merchandise for Anacortes, Bellingham, and other ports. A photographer aboard.

6:15 a.m. Point Wells, unloaded empty oil drums and took on full ones.

10:50 a.m. Headed through the swift waters under Deception Pass Bridge.

1:20 p.m.

Arriving Bellingham waterfront
1:20 p.m. 
where the Osage was tied up
Photo by Bob and Ira Spring
From the archives of the 
Saltwater People Historial Society©

Tuesday 4:53 a.m. 

The Indian slips into Friday Harbor,
San Juan Archipelago, WA., 
4:53 a.m. as logged by the 
photographers, Bob/Ira Spring 
for this amazing shot. 
Click image to enlarge.
The M.V. VASHON is standing by
on the left border 
watching over new arrivals.
Original photo from the archives of the
Saltwater People Historical Society©

7:40 a.m. 

The INDIAN arrives at 7:40 a.m.
at Roche Harbor,
San Juan Island, WA., 
 to load sacks of lime 
from Roche Harbor Lime Works.
This original photo is dated May 1948
but the photographer is unknown.
Click image to enlarge.
From the archives of the 
Saltwater People Historical Society©

9:45 a.m. Headed through Pole Pass (225 ft wide) between Orcas and Crane Island.

11:10 a.m. Arrive Anacortes, Skagit County, WA. The last stop on return home. General merchandise was unloaded at Anacortes Port dock."

From an article published by the Seattle Times. No byline.

Crew and officers aboard:

Homer Stroup, Master

Arie Millenaar, Mate

Merrill Fleck Quartermaster

William Carlson, Chief engineer

Other crew: M.H. Roen, Clyde Durham, John Barr, Erwin Duly, Clarence Ostrom, and cook Helen Scott. 

An Airplane Aboard

The KAYAK

A floating cannery on Lake Union, Seattle,
with one bright red seaplane 
attracting attention.
Photograph dated Oct. 1951 
by Harold Smith 
Click image to enlarge.
from the archives of the 
Saltwater People Historical Society©

A ship with a seaplane on deck attracted considerable interest among persons traveling along the east side of Lake Union.

        The ship, the Kayak, a floating cannery that had recently returned from Alaska waters. 

        The plane was used to keep in touch with land, for such purposes as carrying mail for the fishermen. 

        The Kayak was operated by the Kayak Packing Co. which was owned by Stanley B. Dahl, Dick Wilson, and Jack Most.

Text from the Seattle-Times

FRIDAY HARBOR SHIPBUILDERS

Noted Friday Harbor Shipbuilders

Shipbuilder Frank Jensen
Dated 1960

Admiring a photo of his boat VERDUN
built in 1919
for himself and his brother Joseph.
Click image to enlarge.
original photo from the archives of the 
Saltwater People Historical Society©

A family tradition that reaches well back into the 19th Century, was carried on at Friday Harbor, in the San Juan Islands. The shipyard of Albert Jensen & Sons, Inc., was a Jensen family enterprise since the early days of the island’s settlement.
      Nourdine Jensen, the last owner of the company was the third generation of Jensen family boat-builders. His father was boatbuilder, Albert Jensen.
      Nourdine’s grandfather, Benjamin Jensen, was a shipbuilder in Bergen, on the north coast of Norway, in the 1860s and 70s. He also sailed some, making several trips to Canada. Finally, he came to the New World for good and settled on San Juan Island in 1883. With him were his sons Joe, Albert, Frank, and Pete.
      At the time of this interview, Frank Jensen was 86, and retired. He was keeping up his interest in the activity at the shipyard, making occasional trips to “see how things are going.”
      The Jensens lived for a while at San Juan Town, or “Old Town,” as it was called by the old-timers. After three months there, the family moved to a farm on Griffin Bay, building a house on a spit just below the bay now known as Jensen Bay.
      Along with their farming, Benjamin and his four sons began building a few boats, almost as a sideline. The “sideline” turned into a regular thing, but Frank Jensen recalled they never considered that they were running an organized business.
       “We were no company at all,” Jensen said. “We just built boats.”
      Among the boats the Jensen “just built” were the sailing ships NORTH STAR and the NELLIE JENSEN. The NELLIE JENSEN, on the ways for three years, was the largest sailing vessel the family built. It was 59 feet long, and carried a crew of five. Later it was given a steam engine.
      Other early vessels they built were the steamships GRIFFIN, MESSENGER, and the VALIANT
      The last boat to be built at Jensen Bay was the Adventurer. The NELLIE JENSEN burned to the water, years ago, off Dungeness while carrying a cargo of shingles. The GRIFFIN was wrecked and is on the bottom of Lake Washington. The VALIANT was lost on the beach at California, and another Jensen boat was wrecked in Alaska on the Chignik River.
      Jensen says he doesn’t know of a single life being lost in any of these mishaps.
      In 1901, Frank Jensen got the gold fever and went to Alaska. He never struck it rich but worked for wages shoveling dirt. He didn’t stay long in Alaska. Years later, he made another trip to Alaska, landing at 3 o’clock in the afternoon. By 9 o’clock that night, he was on his way back to Seattle.

      In 1905, Frank married and a few years later, moved to Friday Harbor. About this time, the family became involved in a sawmill operation, but before long the Jensens were back to building boats again. In 1910, they acquired property on a bay a mile south of town and built the shipyard which was long in operation.
      Frank and Joe married sisters, Emily and Alice Guard. When Joe died, his wife, Alice, stayed on with Frank and Emily Jensen in the country place Frank built east of the shipyard, across from Turn Island. The Jensens lived in that house 29 years.

The ISLANDER,

new launching at Jensen's Yard
Friday Harbor, San Juan Island,
all dated 1921.
Click image to enlarge.
The work crew is so far unidentified.
Can you help?

      One of the largest boats the family ever built, and no doubt the best known, was the ISLANDER––a 106 ft freight and passenger boat. The business “Life Line” of the San Juans for many years, the ISLANDER made regular trips through the islands from Anacortes and Bellingham.

clips courtesy of the
Friday Harbor Journal.
Click image to enlarge.

      Later, the ISLANDER was sold to the Puget Sound Freight Lines and renamed the MOHAWK.

Cannery tender NEREID
Moored in her home port of Friday Harbor.
Jensen built in 1911.
Original photo from the 
Saltwater People Historical Society©

      The first boat built at the new yard was the NEREID, a boat used for decades by the Friday Harbor Canning Company. Julia Jensen says the NEREID also was designed by her husband and was his favorite of the boats built by the family.
      During WW II, Albert Jensen and Sons built a fleet of 36-ft tugboats and a dozen wooden barges for the war effort. Another shipyard started up during the war adjacent to the Jensen yard. Both companies specialized in building pleasure boats in the under 90-ft category, as well as fishing boats, and occasionally other types of craft.
      A recent Jensen boat that attracted the attention of numerous boating journals was the 55-ft MECO, built for Archie Morgan, of a Seattle electrical contracting firm.
      Altogether, Nourdine estimates his company built about 50 boats of more than 20 ft each in the years since the war, for an average of two and one-half boats a year.

      Nourdine’s brother, Frits, carried on the family tradition as a prominent Seattle naval architect.
      Frank Jensen was one of the county’s longtime residents. He recalled the island’s settlers well and could recite the names of all the farmers and businessmen who had “places” on San Juan at the end of the past century.
      Frank doesn’t consider that his family pioneered in the usual sense; he recalls there was very little vacant land left on the island when they arrived.
      Of all the Jensen-built boats, Frank’s favorite was the one built for his own use, the 40-ft VERDUN (pronounced with the accent on the first syllable.) He made four or five trips to Alaska with her and has sailed her  throughout the San Juan Islands many times.
      When he was home, Frank kept it anchored in the bay off Turn Point, where it was a familiar sight for many years. Next, the VERDUN saw service in the San Juans as a fishing and workboat owned by Sherman Thompson of Deer Harbor, Orcas Island.

Words by the late author, historian David Richardson, formerly of San Juan and Orcas Islands in the Archipelago. Published by the Seattle Times.

The Port of Friday Harbor purchased the Jensen Shipyard which was reported here.