A photograph needing no words. Amazing work from L.A. Douglas awake and looking NW from Blakely Island, San Juan Archipelago, WA. Date: 6 May 2025 Click to enlarge. |
About Us

- Saltwater People Historical Society
- San Juan Archipelago, Washington State, United States
- A society formed in 2009 for the purpose of collecting, preserving, celebrating, and disseminating the maritime history of the San Juan Islands and northern Puget Sound area. Check this log for tales from out-of-print publications as well as from members and friends. There are circa 750, often long entries, on a broad range of maritime topics; there are search aids at the bottom of the log. Please ask for permission to use any photo posted on this site. Thank you.
07 May 2025
A GLOW FROM VANCOUVER OVER THE SAN JUANS
02 May 2025
ENJOYING THE ARCHIPELAGO, with JUNE BURN, 1929.
"Just one week from today, I left Bellingham bound for the islands. Another too-perfect day for the return.
Dazzling sunshine and water ruffled prettily with a wind from over the sea and far away, pushing up the water into little humps that spill over on each as if in conscious play. There is a sense of awareness about the water, as if it responded voluntarily to the playful pushes and pulls of the wind, as if it ran sprawled upon the beaches just for fun.
The bluffs and beaches, coves, and villages of the island shine in the sun as if they had all just come home from the laundry. The Olympics behind us, Mount Baker softened by the thinnest veil of gray haze to the right of us, the white Cascades thrilling in front of us, Canada to the left and autumn-sweet islands around--if anybody thinks he can paint a picture to compare with that, let him try!
Down the channel again past Prevost, and Waldron, Deer Harbor, West Sound, Orcas, and Shaw, on over the three-hour run from Shaw to Belingham. I have my nose buried in my typewriter this heavenly day, racing to gather the harvest of my days in the islands before other days come swarming down upon me. We are in Bellingham Bay before I know it, the tip of Baker just disappearing over Chuckanut Mountain, across Eliza Island.
"There are more deer on Eliza Island than in the rest of the state of Washington." I hear one of the boatmen say. "They swarm around the cookhouses, so thick you can't get in. But take those same deer when they swim over to Lummi Island, and you can't get near them. They know they are protected here all right."
The neat white cement plant is the first building I can see as we draw in sight of Bellingham. Then, around the Point of Eliza, the smokes of Bellingham and the city itself pour down from all the hills into the bay. Are those the Selkirks over the horizon north-by-west? Shadowy through the yellowish-purple mist?
Five blackfish come spouting up the bay alongside the San Juan II. We leave them behind while we race over the wide harbor towards the city.
Like a wide, deep amphitheater is Bellingham swinging down and around the hills from south to north, the curve narrowing and deepening as we draw closer. South Bellingham in the sun is as colorful as a flower garden or as Heather Meadows in October. Tan and yellow and red and white against the brown and green of the hill. The Fairhaven Hotel is like a feudal castle nestled at the foot of the hill, while the new hotel in North Bellingham is like a young skyscraper. The smokes remind me of a New England factory town, while the beauty of the scene is like nothing but Puget Sound.
And Baker! You can't lose that mountain for long at a time! Here she is, her head and shoulders thrust up again over the hills! She is reminding me that Mr. Huntoon has promised to take me up that snowy radiance on snowshoes. I am glad to be hurrying back home! I had clean forgotten about that promise in the joy of the islands. What a world full of things to do in Puget Sound! And what a lot of friendly people willing to help you do them!
This is all of the island for a while--until next summer, maybe, though I make no promise! When the big winds come, I shall want to go down to see how the old eagle's nest rides the storm high in the branches of a dead fir tree. And I'd like to climb Constitution in the snow if there is to be snow this winter. I'd like to see how the spray freezes against a yellow bluff and the sun makes rainbows all down the bank of ice. I'd like to go stand on the end of Iceberg Point on Lopez Island and feel the wind beating against me from all over the Strait. You don't know your land at all if you know her only in summer! I think Puget Sound people, of all the people I have ever known, are winter-time folks, too!
See you tomorrow."
Published in the Bellingham Herald, evening of 5 November, 1929.
If you would like to view the vessel on which she jumped aboard, SAN JUAN II, it and more of her writings can be viewed on this post HERE.
30 April 2025
SUNDAY FOR SUCIA ISLAND ❖ ❖ 1894
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Steamer BUCKEYE ca. 1892. |
"It was a happy party that boarded the steamer Buckeye for an excursion to the Sucia Islands, last Sunday.
There were small and large people, young and old people, men with their families, and boys with their sweethearts, all bent on having a good time. Well-filled lunch baskets were placed on board, with great care, which was amusing to behold. The trim little steamer left the wharf at a quarter to ten and anchored in McLaughlin's Bay a little after noon. The party landed near Mr. McLaughlin's home, and dinner was spread on the grass under some nice shade trees near the beach.
After dinner, several hours were spent roaming around the beach looking for curios, for which these islands have become famous. But the most "curious " thing found was the fact that the party could find nothing curious enough to be worth bringing home.
About half-past four, in the evening, the merry party gathered on board, the anchor weighed, and the steamer started for home. The evening was fine, the water smooth, and the trip home was a very pleasant one. A stop was made at Olga to land some passengers, and at Newhall, a stop of fifteen minutes was made, and a number of the passengers availed themselves of the opportunity to inspect the sawmill and the wonderful waterpower at this place.
The steamer arrived at Friday Harbor about nine o'clock, with all on board tired, but glad they had been at the party."San Juan Islander newspaper. 1894
The BUCKEYE was built at Seattle in 1890 and purchased three or four years later by Mr. Newhall to take the place of the little steamer Success. She was well-known to people in San Juan County for more than 18 years.
The BUCKEYE was last operated by the Olympic Towing Co when she was destroyed by fire at Stavis Bay, Hood Canal, WA., in 1930.
There is another post about this vessel suffering an accident the year following this party day at Sucia. Click HERE
20 April 2025
NIEDER AND MARCUS, MARINE SALVAGE YARD ... with Captain Ed Shields
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The JEFFERSON (ex-ALASKA) passenger steamer. 1615 tonnage Fate: Nieder & Marcus Marine Salvage Yard, 1925. Photo from the Saltwater People Historical Society. |
The firm of Nieder and Marcus was established in Seattle in 1908 by Michael and Harry Nieder and Ben Marcus and was located on West Waterway just north of the Spokane Street Bridge, on the Harbor Island side of the channel. Their principal business was dealing in scrap metals and other used merchandise salvaged from ships. Today, the word is recycling. Their yard was littered with scrap metal and marine hardware.
Many stories have been written about shipyards and how the shipbuilders assembled or put the vessels together. In the Nieder and Marcus yard, most vessels were taken apart. Over the years, many vessels passed through the yard. For most, it was the end of the line, although a few saw the light of day again and returned to useful service. The list of vessels at the end of this story contains the names of many well-known local vessels, showing the firm was active for over thirty years.
Harry Nieder served with the American Expeditionary Forces in France during World War I and, on his return to Seattle, assumed an active role in the firm along with Ben Marcus. From the beginning of 1909 until about 1924, there were only a few vessels being scrapped. However, during World War II, the War Shipping Administration and the U.S. Shipping Board contracted for the construction of an enormous number of both wood and steel vessels to meet the needs of the armed forces. With the end of the war in 1918, the shipbuilding progress was just getting well underway, but with the end of hostilities, many contracts were canceled, and others were extended just sufficiently that the vessel would be launched rather than leave the partially completed hull on the ways. Lake Union in Seattle became the mooring ground for many of these hulls, some complete and others without machinery.
These new Shipping Board vessels, at least the wood ones, were moored at anchor side by side in two rows comprising nearly forty in number. They were of the Hough and Ferris types intended as coal-fired steamers.
Other shipyards on the West Coast turned out many wood sailing vessels even into the early years of the 1920s. At this time, there was a great demand for vessels to carry lumber from the west coast mills to Australia and the islands of the South Pacific Ocean. However, the spurt in shipping soon ended, and as the vessels completed their return to Seattle, they, in turn, were moored in Lake Union or Eagle Harbor on Bainbridge Island. Around 1925, the owners of older, slow vessels had replaced them with newer, larger ones. Many vessels floating in or near Seattle would never see active service again.
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Lake Union, Seattle, WA. with a few of the inactive ships awaiting their fate, at Nieder & Marcus Marine Salvage Yard, Seattle. |
Beginning about 1925 and continuing through 1939, a steady flow of vessels passed through the control of this firm. Generally, the vessels were brought to the yard under tow and once there, with few exceptions, it was the beginning of the end. All the deck fittings were removed for possible sale to some other ship owner. For the iron or steel vessels, the workmen with their torches started the slow but fatal task of cutting the metal first into large pieces that the stiff-leg crane could lift onto the wharf and next into smaller pieces that would fit into the doors of the blast furnaces of the steel mills.
The masts, lifeboats, davits, stairways, smokestacks, lockers, storage racks, cleats, steering wheels, tables, port lights, running lights, and even dishes were removed intact if possible and stored in a covered shed or warehouse. At the top of the vessel was opened, exposing the interior. Other possibly reusable items were taken out intact, including engines and boilers. There was a market for steam boilers for the salmon canneries of Alaska or some of the sawmills. It was seldom there as a market for an old steam engine so those beautiful pieces of machinery were cut up.
As the removal of the vessel progressed, it would rise in the water until only the bottom and turn of the bilge remained. The propeller was generally brass or bronze with a high value and could be removed without the need for dry dock. The last portions of the keel and bottom plates were often towed to the local drydock, where they could also be cut. I believe some of the vessel bottoms were beached alongside the wharf at high tide and then the workmen could complete the cutting up at low tide. All steel was reduced to the small pieces mentioned above, then picked up with an electric magnet on a crane and placed in a large pile until it was again loaded with the magnet into hopper railroad cars for shipment to the steel mill.
Wooden vessels were also scrapped by the Nieder and Marcus firm. After the vessel was moored at the firm's wharf, all that was possibly reusable was removed. The masts were cut down, with the rigging wire being saved intact, especially for the logging industry. The turnbuckles from the rigging were stored in the warehouse along with the pumps, sails, stones, windlass, anchors, chain, lanterns, tank, donkey engine, etc. The masts and the spars, along with burnable material from the yard, were piled in the hold or on deck to provide additional fuel for the final fire that consumed the hull. When all was ready, the hull was towed to Richmond Beach at a site about one mile south of the present Edmonds Ferry Terminal and beached at high tide. Wires were stretched to shore and attached to stumps and winches that had been removed from other vessels. On a selected day, the hull was set on fire. Often, a generous amount of oil had been spilled throughout the vessel to start the fire.
These wood vessels were of a most heavy construction, the builders having made use of the finest and largest timbers from the mills on the coast. Outside planking of four to six inches thick was normal. The frames were of double-sawed type from ten to fourteen inches square, while the inside planking could be up to fourteen or more inches thick. The decks were at least four-inch plans with massive deck beams to support them. All in all, there was more timber in a vessel than that vessel could carry as cargo in many cases. Hence, there was an enormous amount of fuel for a fire that was required before the ship breakers could salvage the steel fastenings.
When set afire, the blaze would rage for hours. It was common to set the fire at high tide on a summer evening, so as the tide receded, more of the hull would be exposed on the outside. The blaze would consume the deck and much of the upper portions of the hull, but on the inside, the heat from the fire would dry out the planking during low tide, so on the returning high tide, the hull would fill with water rather than float as before. Hence the desire to consume the most as possible before the tide extinguished the fire. Some supper portions would remain smoldering the next day, as the timbers being so large, they would not sustain combustion when the light plans had burned away.
When the blaze was set, the vessel's funeral pyre could be seen for miles up and down the Sound, especially after dark.
The wood hulls, when first set on the beach, would draw from ten to fifteen feet of water, but as the fire consumed the upper portions, the remaining backbone with the frames would float with the incoming tide and then be hauled further up the beach at high tide. The winches on the beach hauled away on the old frames during these high tides, so at low tides, the exposed timer could burn.
When I visited the burning sites one day in the summer, there were several hulls there, each somewhat consumed. The workmen would, at times, use dynamite to break the sections of a vessel into small enough portions that the winches could haul together like the land clearing crews do now with stumps, thereby consolidating the remnants so the fire could be kept burning. A loose or individual timber would not burn of itself.
The purpose of the burning was to recover the metal fastenings that the shipbuilder had used in construction. Some of these hulls, when burned clear down yielded 100 tons of iron bolts! At low tide, the workmen went out on the beach and gathered up any piece of metal they could find. They had made steel sleds out of parts removed from other vessels, and these were filled, dragged up the beach by a winch, then loaded for shipment to the steel mills.
My father, Capt. J.E. Shields bought considerable quantities of ship blocks, turnbuckles, wire rigging, sails, anchors, chain, spars, etc., or use on the fleet of sailing vessels. I remember one day in the summer of 1930 when he had purchased everything he could remove from the ELINORE H. We took two codfish dories from Poulsbo over to Richmond Beach. At high tide, the company crew had thrown over the side of the vessel all the loose wood blocks and several booms and gaffs. We gathered up the heavy books at low tide and put them in the dories. The booms were tied in a long string. Then, when the tide came in, the dories floated with the load of blocks and other metal rigging and hardware that was on the beach. We returned to Poulsbo, where the booms were pulled up on the beach above the tide and the wood blocks in the warehouse. It was surprising how many of these salvaged items were later used. He also bought all of the sails from some of the vessels being dismantled, these being stored in our sail loft where, over the years, they were taken out, then cut down to a smaller size for the codfish vessels, or just portions of the canvas used as tarpaulins.
The main yard of Nieder & Marcus had a warehouse where the better "goodies" were kept in the hope someone with cash would come along. There was one portion that had a second story. The flooring was salvage teak decking, 4" x 4" they had bought after it had been removed during one of the overhauls of the USS SARATOGA. Other items I remember there, as I was a frequent visitor when accompanying my father, were many coal oil lanterns removed from vessels. How I would like to have them today. However, the one item I remember most vividly was a ship's bell removed from the USS PRINCETON. I never heard a more beautiful tone from a bell. It was mounted on a wooden frame where a person could strike the bell, and then the tone could be heard for at least three minutes. The bell, as I remem ber qa vour 24" across. At the time he vessel was built, the school children of Princeton, New Jersey, had collected money for a bell. They had donated dimes, silver 10-cent pieces, which were melted down to last the bell. Therefore, the bell was solid silver! A proud ship carried this bell. I have not been able to find the disposition of the bell. Nieer and Marcus had decided that, as the bell was donated by children from their dimes, whoever bought it had to guarantee it would not be melted down to recover the silver. If any reader knows the whereabouts of the bell, we would appreciate learning from you..
Mr. John Howelln, nephew of Joe Livingston, the last manager of the firm, has a scrapbook kept by the firm, and therein is contained the only remaining history. Some photos show vessels being cut down, and a few newspaper stories have been preserved. Of interest to me were the final bill of sale documents from the previous owner to N & M. The former owner was faced with a problem of disposing of he old vessels, and a fleet of sailing vessels such as those owned by Libby McNeil and Libby went for one dollar each. When N & M had a signed bill of sale properly notarized in hand, there was no question of ownership and the possible later claim for damages to the vessel or by the Coast Guard for barratry.
The list of vessels that passed through the hands of N & M is included here. Not all were reduced to ashes and scrap for the steel furnaces. The PATTERSON, originally a survey ship, was fitted out as a motor ship and engaged in racing to Point Barrow before finally being wrecked in 1938. MONITOR became a fish reduction plant while K.V. DRUSE became a log barge. The ferry SEATTLE was towed to Alaska for use as a fish plant. There may be others that saw the deep water of the ocean or inland seas under their keel again.
Text by Capt. Edd Shieldsfor Puget Sound Maritime Society
Membership journal The Sea Chest, 1972.
Seattle, WA.
07 April 2025
The MASSACHUSETTS, THE FIRST AMERICAN STEAMSHIP TO VISIT PUGET SOUND, all the way to San Juan Island.
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The MASSACHUSETTS Postcard copyright 1896 Click image to enlarge. Published by the Metropolitan News, Boston. from the archives of the Saltwater People Historical Society© |
"The Spring 1970 issue of Steamboat Bill, the quarterly of the Steamship Historical Society of America, carried a story on the "The Auxiliary Steam Packet MASSACHUSETTS." This historic vessel, built in 1845 at the East Boston shipyard of Samuel Hall, was given detailed chronological treatment of her rig and power plant changes with abbreviated accounts of her West Coast activities in between. The narrator related that she was transferred by the War Department to the Navy at Mare Island, CA., on 1 August 1849 and that she served as a storeship until 1853 when she returned to Norfolk, VA., to have new boilers installed. Then, he says, she sailed to the Pacific in July of the following year, and in 1855, she was listed as a storeship at Acapulco. Then he concluded that her name had been changed, and in 1862, she became the FARRALONES, which was still a storeship and coal ship in San Francisco.
Some of the most colorful chapters in the vessel's history were largely concerned with the Pacific Northwest, where her name loomed big in maritime movements. The MASSACHUSETTS performed so many important government duties in these parts that it seems fitting to give readers some details about these activities.
The MASSACHUSETTS was first heard of in this region when she arrived off the mouth of the Columbia River on 8 May 1949 with the first important contingent of American troops to be stationed in this area. On 13 May, the force arrived opposite Fort Vancouver and was landed the following day.
This was the end of a month's voyage from New York around Cape Horn. The vessel carried 161 officers and men of the First Regiment, U.S. Artillery companies M and Lk, commanded by Brevel Major J.S. Hathaway. Some would remain at Fort Vancocuver, where they would wreck barraks. Others were destined somewhat later to establish Fort Steilacoom for the protection of settlers on Puget Sound.
On the way to the Pacific Coast, the vessel created a stir when she entered Honolulu harbor on a calm day without the help of canvas. Astonished Hawaiian natives crowded the beach to see the phenomenon, and an island newspaper headlined the went, "Arrival Extraordinary."
At that time, the sight of a vessel equipped with both sails and propeller was unusual. Steamboat Bill describes her equipment. The MASSACHUSETTS was 160 feet L on deck x 20 ft D x 32 ft B and measured about 776 tons. She was full ship-rigged and her steam power was strictly auxiliary to her canvas and was intended to be used occasionally when near land and in smooth water or to get in and out of port.
The motive power was a two-cylinder condensing engine capable of about 170 HP or a speed of nine statute miles per hour in smooth water. The engine and boilers were in the lower hold, with space in the wings for oal bunkers. The propeller was a six-bladed Ericsson screw 9 1/2 feet in diameter that could be lifted out of the water when the ship was under sail.
The MASSACHUSETTS was the first American steamship to visit Puget Sound. She anchored off Fort Nisqually on 25 April 1850. The story of how she got here goes back to the plea of Governor Joseph Lane of Oregon Territory for better aids to navigation and more protection for settlers and shipping.
On the last night of the 1850 session of Congress, Samuel P. Thurston, delegate from Oregon Territory, succeeded in founding up and getting into their seats enough representatives who would vote for his bill to set aside $53,140 for erection of lighthouses at Cape Disappointment, Cape Flattery, and new Dungeness, also installation of 12-iron-can buoys in the Columbia River. The measure passed, but the money was not spent immediately.
Meanwhile, the MASSACHUSETTS had brought the troops to the Columbia River and, after delivering the soldiers, had been sent back to San Francisco, where she was transferred to the Navy to transport a newly appointed commission. Its purpose was to examine the coast of the western United States lying upon the Pacific Ocean concerning points of occupation for the security of trade and commerce and for military and naval purposes." The ship was in command of Capt. Samuel Knox.
She sailed from California and was off the Columbia River on 20 April 1850. Her visit to Nisqually was duly recorded in the journal of the Hudson's Bay Trading post. It mentioned that Lieutenant Danville Leadbetter, representing the Army, was of the Topographical Corps and that he and the doctor called at the fort.
While in the area, the MASSACHUSETTS called at Victoria and Esquimault and continued north through the Gulf of Georgia to Beaver Harbor to take on coal. She rounded the north end of Vancouver Island and followed the route south. On the coast of Washington, she stopped at the mouth of Willapa Bay, where a party was dispatched to scrutinize the harbor. (This occasion was honored later when Leadbetter Point was named.) Part of the purpose was to determine how close the bay was to the Columbia River. A whaleboat was hauled over the portage between the two bodies of water with the help of a dozen or more Natives.
The commission reached Astoria on 30 June and examined the lower Columbia, arriving at Portland around the 11th of July. The MASSACHUSETTS next sailed for the Umpqua River and arrived back on San Francisco Bay around 1 September.
The Steamboat Bill article accounts for the MASSACHUSETTS next activity. After her return from Norfolk, VA., she came back to Puget Sound to replace the DECATUR, sent here during the Native American troubles of 1854.
In April 1855, citizens of Port Townsend requested the government to assign a war vessel to cruise between Bellingham Bay, Dungeness, Port Townsend, and Foulweather Bluff to guard against incursions of Haida and other Northern Natives from British Columbia. The MASSACHUSETTS was immediately sent back to Puget Sound and, early in 1856, was dispatched to Port Gamble to disperse a gathering of Canadian Natives. When they refused to leave, she opened fire and killed 27, which caused the Natives to vow vengeance. They later killed Col. Isaac S. Ebay on Whidbey Island in reprisal.
The MASSACHUSETTS again played a role in local history in 1859 when she steamed out of Steilacoom with troops for the "Pig War" in the San Juan Islands. She also picked up Capt. George Pickett's company at Fort Bellingham and moved the soldiers to San Juan Island. The vessel played its final part in the unrest when Maj. Gen. Winfield Scott made her his headquarters while he was on Puget Sound on behalf of the president to settle the difficulty, resulting in joint occupation of the islands by both British and American troops. Scott left on the MASSACHUSETTS after his negotiations.
After the MASSACHUSETTS name was changed to FARRALONES, she was drafted for the Civil War. In 1867, she was sold to Moore & Co. of San Francisco, and the last reference to the vessel as bark ALASKA, owned by that firm. No records of her existence after 1871 can be found but Steamboat Bill says she is reported lost on the coast of Chile in 1874."
Words by author/historian Lucile McDonald who wrote thousands of historical essays for the Seattle Times newspaper and many for The Sea Chest published by the Puget Sound Maritime Society.
Some of her sources: Steamboat Bill journal of the Steamship Historical Society of America.
Published in The Sea Chest journal of 1970 from the Puget Sound Maritime Society, Seattle, WA.
20 March 2025
AN IRRATIONAL ACT .... with added chart detail
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Graphics by Al Hamilton. Click image to enlarge. From the archives of the Saltwater People Historical Society© |
Remembering the ELWHA
11 March 2025
CAPTAIN JAMES GRIFFITHS AND "SIR TOM"
Essay by Norm Blanchard and Stephen Wilen (abridged)
Knee-Deep in Shavings, Memories of Early Yachting and Boatbuilding on the West Coast. Horsdal & Schbart Ltd, Victoria, B.C., Canada. 1999.
"In 1912, a syndicate made up of ten wealthy Seattle businessmen, some of whom were Seattle Yacht Club (SYC) members, contributed $100 each and commissioned Ted Geary to design the Sir Tom to compete for the Sir Thomas Lipton Perpetual Challenge Trophy. She was built by my father and his partners, Dean and Lloyd Johnson, and Joseph McKay. The Sir Tom went on to become the most famous sailboat in the entire history of the SYC. Of all the various syndicate members who supported her over the years, even though he was not one of the founding members, it was Captain James Griffiths who really made sure that she remained in active competition as long as she did.
Captain James was one of the most prominent people around the Seattle waterfront in general, and the SYC in particular, since he served as commodore three times, in 1921, '22, and '28. He was the first person to be made an honorary life commodore in the club. He was a Welshman, born in 1861. He had the characteristic British small stature, with red hair.
He emigrated to Victoria, B.C., around 1885, and set up a stevedoring and towboat company. He settled next in Tacoma, where he formed James Griffiths & Co Ship Brokers, and found the Tacoma Steam Navigation Co. He later moved to Seattle, where he began a towboat operation on Puget Sound, and formed Griffiths & Sprague Stevedoring Co. He had either a branch of that company, or perhaps a second stevedoring company which he continued to operate in Vancouver, B.C. He also owned, or was partner to, the Coastwise Steamship & Barge Co and the Seattle-Everett Dock & Warehouse Co and acquired his own shipyard, the old Hall Brothers yard, which he renamed Winslow Marine Railway & Shipbuilding Co at Eagle Harbor over on Bainbridge Island.[ see photo below.]
Later, Captain Griffiths became involved with James J. Hill, the "Empire Builder," in the business of importing silk from the Orient, and Griffiths is the man who is credited with bringing the Chinese silk through Seattle. He simply went to China and contacted the right people, who were with the Nippon Yusen Kaisha Line. He had to work through interpreters entirely, but he convinced them they could get the silk to market faster if they came to Seattle rather than San Francisco. This was a huge gamble on his part, but it paid off for the Captain: his company became agents for the NYK Line, Hill's "silk trains" met the ships at the pier and rushed the silk express on specially cleared tracks all the way from Seattle to New York City.
Despite his active involvement in heading up the syndicate that financed the building and campaigning of the Sir Tom, the Captain himself seemed to be only interested in power boats. By 1925, Captain Griffiths he commissioned Ted Geary to design his yacht, Sueja III and in 1926 the 117 foot yacht was launched at the captain's own yard, Winslow Marine Railway & Shipbuilding Co. Sueja III was, and is ––because she is still in the charter business on the east coast, now known as Mariner III. All of her woods were Oriental. She was largely built in China and shipped in knock-down fashion to Captain Griffith's yard, where she was assembled under the supervision of Geary.
There are many stories about the Sueja III, but one that I recall in particular occurred about 1927, which would have been the first full cruising season. One morning on a trip to California, when the yacht lay at anchor in Wilmington harbor, Art, a step-son, was standing up on the deck. He'd just finished breakfast when he saw a launch heading toward the Sueja III and he couldn't figure out who this would be, as their own launch was moored on a boom alongside. Well, this launch pulled up alongside the gangway and out jumped two fellows, and one of them came bounding up the gangway ladder. Art walked over to meet him, and the stranger asked, "Is the owner aboard? I want to meet the owner. I'm going to buy this boat."
Art replied, "Well, I'll tell the captain you want to speak with him," and went to find him. Naturally, Art hung around to hear what was said.
The Captain was really pretty short, and the stranger was pretty tall, and he said to Captain Griffiths, "I want to buy your boat," or something to that effect.
Captain Griffiths drew himself upon to his full height, and jabbing a forefinger at the stranger's chest, he sputtered, "Young man, this boat is not for sale, but if you'll keep a civil tongue in your head I'll introduce you to the man who designed her, and he can design one for you and you can build it."
Well, the stranger was none other than John Barrymore and so that's the story of how the 120-foot, Geary designed Infanta came to be built in 1920. She, of course, is now known to us as THEA FOSS. She has been the Foss Maritime Company's corporate yacht for many years, and is still a beautiful yacht.
To get back to the Sir Tom. The R Class Rule had been developed by Nathanael Herreshoff in Rhode Island, and when Geary returned from M.I.T. and was commissioned by the syndicate to design the Sir Tom, he created a really fast hull shape. The Sir Tom was the first Seattle R Class sloop and easily won the right to challenge other candidates for the Lipton Cup, which she did, and she held it continually from 1914 until 1928.
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SIR TOM Undated photo from the archives of the Saltwater People Historical Society© |
The syndicate stuck together and paid Sir Tom's bills pretty much for years. Captain Griffiths was recognized as the manager of the syndicate, and as various members of the original group died be would either find the money from somebody else or dig into his own pockets, because he really felt that the Sir Tom and Ted Geary were head and shoulder about the gang at the Royal Vancouver and the Royal Victoria yacht clubs. He was always the perfect host aboard the Sueja II and the Sueja III
The Sir Tom eventually became, I guess by survival mainly, the property of Captain Griffiths. During WW II all international competition ceased, so she was stored at his shipyard at Eagle Harbor. Captain Griffiths died before the Armistice, on 29 June 1943, and for a while his son, Stanley, ran the companies, but he soon passed on. His son, James, became head of the Washington Tug and Barge Co and his brother Churchill was right in there as vice-president of operations.
When my brother, Wheaton, got out of the navy about the end of WW II, he was at Officers Candidate School at the U of WA campus, and in 1946 he persuaded my dad to go 50-50 with him and buy the Sir Tom. That summer Wheaton actively campaigned the boat at the SYC races, but the R Class was dead by that time. After he got married, he couldn't afford to pay his half of the boat bills, so the Sir Tom came to sit on our dock at the boat company for quite a few years.
In 1956, a young fellow came into the boat company and told me he wanted to buy the Sir Tom. I asked him, "Do you think you can repair her and put her back in condition?" Well, yes, he thought he could. I questioned him, "What kind of experience have you had?" Well, he replied he hadn't really had any experience, so I said, "I'll tell you what I'll do. I'll write to Ted Geary and get the exact weight of the lead keel, and the day that you're ready to write a check, I'll sell the boat to you for just what the lead is worth on that day. We can check the newspaper for the quotation on the price of lead. I'll give you five more years of free storage on the mast. If you haven't been to get it after five years, why, if it's still up there and you want it, we'll have to negotiate a new deal on the mast."
He eventually went through with the deal, and as he was leaving I said to him, "Now don't sell that lead for a honeymoon!"
About five years later, I know it was at least five years, because he never came back for the mast and I sold it. I was lying in the large lock in my "33" sloop, Aura, and a Senior Knockabout came alongside and rafted up. The owner or skipper was at the tiller and another fellow with him, and the other fellow said to me, "You don't remember me, Mr. Blanchard? Well, I'm the guy who took the lead keel off the Sir Tom and sold it for a honeymoon __ and that was a bad mistake, too." It seems his marriage had failed. After he bought Sir Tom he had her hauled out someplace and trucked to his parents' backyard, and after he sold the lead, I suppose the boat was simply broken up for kindling.
So that's the story of Captain James Griffiths and the Sir Tom syndicate. Wells Ostrander, the son of one of the early members, gave his father's certificate or membership paper in the Sir Tom syndicate to the Seattle Yacht Club a few years back, and we still have that at the clubhouse. It's sad the way we lost the Sir Tom, but as I've said about other former grand boats, sometimes when they fall into such neglected condition it's maybe best to just let them slip away. "
09 March 2025
THE FOREST BARKENTINES
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FOREST FRIEND Built with two sister ships at Gray's Harbor, WA. 1919. |
The barkentine rig –– that strange marriage of square and fore-and-aft sails, came to the bloom on the west coast.
Such a combination of differently cut canvas obviously prompts the question: Why the two rigs? Why not keep either to the square of the schooner rig? The answer lay in the use to which such vessels were put or, more correctly, the pattern of trade routes such vessels would traverse most inexpensively.
With lumber being king and the new countries "down under" clamoring for building materials, the Barkentine rig was ideally suited for the long runs in the Trades to "fetch" up the Antipodes. Vessels of this rig could run the large schooners out of sight in the Trades or on voyages such as to South Africa or the Islands.
Three later-day examples of this rig were the beautiful, large barkentines FOREST FRIEND, FOREST PRIDE, and FOREST DREAM, built in 1919 at Grays Harbor, WA.
The vessels measured 249 feet by 44 feet by 19 feet and had 1,650,000 board feet capacity.
Their maiden voyages took them to Sydney, Australia with lumber, the usual pattern being then to load coal at Newcastle for Honolulu, Callao, Mauritius, Antwerp, the Caribbean, San Antonio, France, Cadiz, Queenstown, Noumea, Iquique, Pimental, and Stromstad were other ports of call.
These big barkentines were not clippers, but on occasion showed their heels and demonstrated that as late as the 1920s profits were to be made in sail. In April, 1925, after temporary layup in Lake Union, FOREST PRIDE loaded 1,560,000 feet of lumber at Williapa Harbor for Adelaide, Australia at $15 per thousand (1,000 board feet,) returning to Seattle in December in forty days from Callao.
In 1926, she went outward to Adelaide in ninety-eight days, returning in eighty-two days during which passage she logged 2,222 miles in nine days, or an average of almost 247 miles per day. That was good sailing in that day and age!
All three vessels operated under tow along the West Coast for a while, sometimes in tow of the steamship FOREST KING.
In the late 1920s, FOREST DREAM was sold at auction in Australia after a charterer had gone bankrupt. A group of officers from the Swedish training ship C.B. PEDERSEN purchased the vessel and operated her between Europe and the West Coast of South America, carrying guano and then logwood between the Caribbean and Central American ports and France. She finally was destroyed by fire at Stromstad, Sweden, in 1933.
The PRIDE, after arriving in Seattle in September of 1927, was laid up in Lake Union never to feel the press of wind-filled canvas again. Later, as a barge, she assisted in raising the ill-fated ISLANDER. There is a post of that adventure on this site..
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FOREST PRIDE |
FOREST PRIDE took lumber from Bellingham to Noumea, New Caledonia in the excellent time of forty-two days, then crossing to Newcastle to load coal for South America. On the run from Australia to the West Coast she logged seven hundred miles during a forty-eight hour stretch.
In the spring of 1929, the FRIEND was libeled by a shipyard at Vancouver, B.C., that had not been paid for repairs. She was laid up there until 1938 when the Island Tug and Bargo Co., purchased the ship for conversion to a hog fuel barge.
Thus came to an end the rather short-lived careers of three graceful but sturdy sail carriers, plodding onward in an age which had outrun their kind. It is a wonder they lasted as long as they did.
They were not only three ships, they were a culmination of hundreds of years of evolution and development, from the full-rigged ship and the topsail schooner, the end result being a combination of the advantages of the schooner and the square-rigger. By using a square-rigged fore mast, the barkentine had the advantage of spreading a larger sail area before the wind, as compared to the fore-and-aft schooner. The rig came into great popularity as a substitute for either large 3 or 4 masted schooners or ships about 1880.
Pacific Coast builders gave a good deal of attention to this rig. While more expensive to build than the schooner rig, the barkentine was far less costly than a ship or a bark and
required fewer hands.
The "forest" barkentines were fine examples of the rig. They were a credit to their builders and beautiful manifestations of the shipwrights' art during sail's last stand.
Words by Mr. Gordon "Chips" Jones for The Sea Chest membership journal
25 February 2025
THE LEXICON OF LINES
Lore from The Lazarette.... a look back,
Courtesy of the Honourable Doug Adkins and
04 February 2025
BEAUTIFUL AND WONDERFUL with Sir Attenborough
01 February 2025
MEN AND SHIPS OF THE NORTHWEST – a Review by Don Page
The H.W. McCurdy Marine History of the Pacific Northwest
"The H.W. McCurdy Marine History of the Pacific Northwest may be the most remarkable book ever published on the West Coast.
It's a big book almost any way you look at it. Its buckrum binding houses 736 pages. Those pages are divided into 61 chapters, crammed with 2,000 pictures and the 950,000 words it took writer Gordon Newell to sketch the story of ships and men of the waterfront and the sea from 1896 to 1965.
These 70 years bridged the eras of sail, of coal, of oil, and now, of nuclear power aboard our ships. They saw booms and busts, hot wars and cool peace, gold rushes, launching and sinking, arrivals, and final departures.
Newell has told his story well, revering maritime history and the people who made it. He has also provided the deft touch of a professional writer and a dash of sardonic humor now and again to give the text a welcome crackle.
The history opens in 1895 with Nippon Yusen Kaisha, in company with the Great Northern Railway and Captain James Griffiths, opening the first regular Japanese steamship service to Seattle. It closes with the death in 1965 of
'Einar Endresen, 83, an old-time sparmaker whose father founded the Endresen Spar & Lumber Co at Aberdeen, which he later managed, furnishing masts and spars to sailing vessels on the Pacific and the Atlantic coasts.'
In between are many well-remembered sea stories of the Northwest–stories such as the construction of the battleship NEBRASKA, the arrival of the 'ton of gold' ship PORTLAND, the fading of the Puget Sound Mosquito Fleet, and the rise of the waterfront unions from blood and grime to positions of responsibility.
Many of the stories are less well-remembered. For instance, the story of the two submarines built in Seattle and bought by the Province of British Columbia at the start of WW I. British Columbia's premier borrowed money from a bank to buy the subs, and Newell comments, 'For a time British Columbia enjoyed the historic distinction of being the only province of Canada to own its own mortgaged Navy.'
Newell memorializes, too, the Puget Sound skipper who went on to become admiral of the Turkish Navy and the ill-starred Skagit sailor who departed this vail by wrapping the anchor rope around his neck and jumping.
The McCurdy Marine History is not just history of Seattle or Puget Sound, of course. Its stated geographic range is from the California border north into the Arctic Ocean.
Newell has done a responsible, commendable job. He was strengthened and guided in this effort by a distinguished sponsor and a conscientious board of review. The book would have been impossible without an 'angel.' That angel and guiding light of the history was wealthy, now retired, Seattle shipbuilder, Horace McCurdy.
Early in 1963, McCurdy established a grant with the Seattle Historical Society for the research and writing of the new History. He picked Newell to do the writing. The grant grew as the book grew. It started at around $50,000 by the time Superior Publishing began distributing the 1,500 volume press run of the McCurdy History. That grant, of course, won't be paid back. Whatever small profits come will go to the Historical Society and to publisher Albert Salisbury for his gamble in putting out the book (Publishers of Lewis and Dryden went broke on it.)
McCurdy is an admitted dewy-eyed lover of things of the seas. He also is a hardheaded businessman. He wanted the best, most authentic history he could buy with his $50,000. To ensure this be assembled a review board of 17 men, all authorities on one or more phases of subjects to be covered in the History. That review board read three progressive manuscripts of the book. Members made suggestions to author Newell and supplied source material. Some even contributed sections for his editing.
The result of McCurdy's and Newell's work and the contributions of the review board, coupled with the rich material of 70 years of Northwest maritime history is a handsome volume as impressive as it looks."
Don Page review published by the Seattle Post-Intelligencer 21 May 1967. This review was extracted from Don't Leave Any Holidays Volume II, H.W. McCurdy. Inscribed copy number 38. Published July 1981. Saltwater People Historical Society collection.
Below, Don Page writes further in the Seattle P-I, 20 Oct. 1974:
"The publishing time and size of Volume I roughly doubled and McCurdy found he'd underrated the cost of playing godfather to a book of Northwest marine history. He financed the book through grants to the Seattle Museum of History and Industry and Museum Director Mrs. Sutton Gustison recalled:
'Every time we ran out of money, we'd call Mr. McCurdy and say, 'We need another thousand,' and he'd always come through.'
Everyone was happy, though, with the finished product. The "McCurdy History" sent saltwater buffs of our part of the world into ecstasy. Superior Publishing was so pleased that it put out a new edition of "Lewis & Dryden's History," to form, with the McCurdy volume, a handsome two-volume set. Newell continued to mix more books in with his Olympia politicking. The museum profited. McCurdy beamed. And a second volume was published to cover the following ten years of marine history to yield a fine three-volume collectible set.
"This book is going to be the last word. It's going to belong to the ages, just like Lincoln." H.W. McCurdy.