"The Cure for Everything is Saltwater, Sweat, Tears, or the Sea."

About Us

My photo
San Juan Archipelago, Washington State, United States
A society formed in 2009 for the purpose of collecting, preserving, celebrating, and disseminating the maritime history of the San Juan Islands and northern Puget Sound area. Check this log for tales from out-of-print publications as well as from members and friends. There are circa 750, often long entries, on a broad range of maritime topics; there are search aids at the bottom of the log. Please ask for permission to use any photo posted on this site. Thank you.

12 October 2011

❖ US Coast Guard's Most Famous Vessel ❖ BEAR (update)

Looking to sea from the deck of the BEAR.
1934 original photo
from the archives of the S.P.H.S.©
The Cutter BEAR
by R. H. (Skipper) Calkins

"From the time I began my career as a waterfront newsman, the historic old cutter BEAR, Uncle Sam's most widely known mercy ship in Alaskan waters, fascinated me. Perhaps it was her barkentine rig which gave her an appearance unlike any of her fleet mates, and her glamourous service as an Arctic whaler, before she was purchased by the US government. For years she was pay dirt as I panned the waterfront in quest for news and feature stories, some concerning the fabulous gold strikes of the Klondyke.
      At that time, my rival on the marine beat was a stocky fellow with an English accent who had reached our shores from Australia. He was a pompous individual, a two-fisted drinking man, who made the bar of the old Rainier-Grand Hotel, where many waterfronters gathered, his often-frequented club.
      I had bumped the fellow from down-under with a story concerning the purchase of a ship by the Pacific Alaska Navigation Co., and was told he was gunning for me.
      One day I picked up the rival sheet and read under screaming headlines what purported to be a story of the rescue of a freighter afire at sea, by the "famed" cutter BEAR. Such extravagant expressions as "a blazing torch", "blistered decks", and "seafaring men periled" were used.
      When the BEAR reached Seattle, I was the first man aboard. I questioned every one from the captain to the cook and discovered that my rival on the marine beat had not allowed the lack of facts to spoil a good story. The freighter "rescued" had a bunker fire, the BEAR was nearby and convoyed her to Dutch Harbor where she discharged part of her bunker supplies, reloaded, and proceeded.
      However, from that time on, I never missed a sailing or arrival of the BEAR. I made friends of the officers and crew and praised the service of this old mercy ship.
Original postcard from Byrd's Antarctic Expedition II on BEAR.
Capt. R.A.J. English served on the Bear from 1933-1935.

Saltwater People Historical Society archives. ©
      The stout little barkentine-rigged wooden-hull vessel had her steam engines removed and replaced at Boston by a six-cylinder 600-HP Diesel. The tall stack from which black smoke billowed as she arrived off the Arctic coast of Alaska, giving her the name of "big smoke ship" among the Eskimos, was removed. A power plant which saved valuable space, due to the smaller fuel supply needed, was installed in the BEAR, one of the world's oldest vessels.
      During her long service in the Bering Sea and the Arctic, the BEAR was driven by a two-cylinder compound steam engine. Until 1912 she was navigated by a two-blade propeller, installed by her builders 38-years before.
      The BEAR's 'black gang' experienced plenty of grief when the old cutter sailed from Seattle each spring bound for Point Barrow and the little settlements near the top of the world.
      The coal-fired steam plant required 392 tons of fuel, part of which was stored on the vessel's deck. With her steam engine going at full speed, the old BEAR was able to log about nine knots. Under canvas alone, which she carried for her barkentine rig, the vessel, in a spanking breeze, could make about eight knots.
      I remember seeing the old BEAR each fall after her annual cruise to the Arctic. We were welcomed aboard by the genial skipper, a heavy-set bespectacled man, who took us to the officers' quarters. Here, seated at a table drinking steaming hot coffee and eating rolls, we received the news of the long Arctic cruise. Captain Cochran usually called for the log book in order to give newsmen details of rescues and assistance rendered the natives of the far-flung Arctic coast. After the interview was over, the captain would present trinkets of ivory made by the Eskimos.
      The BEAR was built in Greenock, Scotland in 1874 for the Arctic whaling industry. In 1884 she was purchased by the US and assigned to the Navy for service in the Greely Relief Expedition. In 1885 she was transferred to the US Revenue Cutter Service for duty in the Bering Sea and performed this service until her replacement in 1928 by the Diesel-powered cutter NORTHLAND.
      The BEAR earned more fame in the Arctic than any other vessel. To the natives she meant law, order, civilization, and justice. The big 'smoke ship' to the Eskimos was a symbol of power of the white man.
      Although the BEAR spent her winters at a wharf in Oakland, she was sent to isolated little settlements along the northern coast; she usually began her annual cruises in Seattle.

      The BEAR called in at Elliott Bay on her way to the Far North to take aboard stores and embark government employees. Sometimes she carried a famous scientist who was en route to isolated districts of Alaska to study glacier formations or the origin of the ancient tribes which first settled the westernmost islands of the Aleutian chain. 
      Famed for her cruises in Arctic seas as a mercy ship and to Little America with personnel of the Byrd Polar Expedition, the historic old Coast Guard cutter BEAR, last was reported carrying Jewish immigrants from the Mediterranean to Israel."
The Seattle waterfront long will remember the historic old cutter BEAR, which ranks as the Coast Guard's most famous vessel. Retired by the government under the stigma that she was too old and too slow, the BEAR was converted into a motorship for her part in the second Byrd Antarctic Expedition
From: High Tide The Big Stories of Seattle's Waterfront 1952.


Captain C. S. Cochran.
The old USRC BEAR finally made her last
northern cruise in gov't service in 1926.
The veteran commander Cochran was on her
bridge during most of her recent service.
The historic BEAR terminated her government service
and was given to the city of Oakland, CA, as a
maritime shrine, she still had a long and thrilling
career ahead of her, which was to span
more than a generation. 

Undated original photo from the archives of
the S.P.H.S.©

10 October 2011

❖ Bristol Bay Boat WHISKER ❖


WHISKER
Friday Harbor, San Juan Island, WA.
 “John Dickinson’s 29-ft Bristol Bay sailboat started taking on water when he launched it in the spring of 1978, and that meant a big job to be done that summer.    
      The boat was then at least 50-years old, but it had never leaked before—and wouldn’t have then, he’s certain, except that he had stored it out of the water for three winters running. He won’t do that again, he vows.    
      The planks of a wooden boat will shrink when they dry out, and thus the  seams will open; but if the owner is lucky the planks will swell and the seams will close when the boat is re-launched.
      John wasn’t so lucky, and he had to re-caulk (pronounced “re-cork”) the  seams—all 430 linear feet of them. He finally hired an expert, Tim Eslick, to help,  and got the job done in about two months. First John pulled out the old caulking cotton (think cotton “yarn”) with a  hooked tool called a reefer. Then Tim put fresh caulking cotton in with a caulking iron and caulking mallet. And then John put in black seam compound with a  putty knife before painting her bottom and putting the boat back in the water.    
      Bristol Bays are sturdy, seaworthy boats built for fishing under sail in Alaska’s Bristol Bay, starting perhaps around 1880. In 1952 the state allowed power boats in the fishery, and although fish caught from sailboats brought one-cent a pound more than those fish from power boats; that was the beginning of the end for the sailing fleet.        
      There are still good, solid ‘Bristol Bays’ stored in rotting warehouses in Alaska, John says, and a lot of people would like to have one. But it’s such a  problem getting them out, that most people eventually give up.
      John and his wife, Edie, bought their boat from Camp Orkila on Orcas in 1963 and sailed it home to San Juan. Their daughter, Elizabeth, then 3-years old, named it WHISKER, because it 'whisks through the water.' (Camp Orkila had been given a number of Bristol Bays by Alaska Packers Assoc. in Blaine.)
      There might be a dozen Bristol Bays in the county now [1983], John guesses, some sailboats and some converted to power. They're popular because of their good sea qualities, their lovely lines, and their still reasonable price."
By John and Louise Dustrude
San Juan Almanac 1983
Longhouse Printcrafters,
Friday Harbor, WA.

08 October 2011

❖ CAPTAIN BARNEY JOHNSON ❖ TAKES YACHT TO SEATTLE ❖ 22 June 1937

   
WESTWARD HO (ex-WHITE WINGS II)
Home waters, Vancouver, B. C.
WESTWARD HO was designed by Edson B. Schock,

and built in 1927 by George Askew, for Walter Cline.
Cline traded her to Barney Johnson for the famous ALEXANDRA in 1930.
"I suspect it was Barney who changed her gaff rig.
He added the first genoa to be seen in these waters.
 He won a lot of races with her during the years he owned her.
It seems he borrowed her on occasion; he won the Beaver Cup with her in 1939.
"

Photo and quote courtesy of David Williams, Vancouver, B. C.
      


"At approximately 8:30 this morning, in the swirling narrows and under an overcast sky, Captain Barney Johnson, popular skipper of the WESTWARD HO, dipped his ensign and officially said goodbye for his WESTWARD HO to the Royal Vancouver Yacht club. Ushered out by Tom Ramsey's ARMITA, carrying Skipper Ramsay, Art Jefferd, and Fred Holland, the WESTWARD HO, under power, circled around in the swirling tide, while the representatives on the ARMITA gave three hasty cheers and blew loudly on a foghorn.
      The WESTWARD HO has been sold to a girls' school outside of Seattle. Johnson was delivering her this morning. She was built in Vancouver and has been the property of Barney Johnson for the past eight years during which time she has been the commodore's ship on two occasions. She has always been regarded as the Royal Vancouver Yacht Club's number one sailing vessel, sort of one of the pillars of the sailing craft.
      'She's a beautiful boat,' sadly murmured Johnson. 'I'll hate to lose her. But I have made up my mind. Come on, boys, have another drink with the sun, you have to have a mizzen now you have your topsail set. Can't sail on one wing, you know.'
      Another toast, a few hearty choruses of 'Blow the Man Down,' and the WESTWARD HO was on her way.
      Over the weekend she sailed her last race, the Ballenas Islands race for the Beaver Cup, and was an easy win.
      'We really sailed her on her last race,' said Barney. 'I'll hate to see her go... but maybe we can get her up here for the ladies' race with some of the girls handling her.'
      According to reports Barney Johnson will not be off the sea. The famous old salt plans to get a small boat and do some racing."
News article by Hal Straight 
The Vancouver Sun
Tuesday 22 June 1937.
From the archives of the
Saltwater People Historical Society

Below notes from Miles McCoy, West Sound, Orcas Island. 
McCoy was the skipper of WESTWARD HO in the summer of 1950 when he was 19-years old. The West Sound sailing scene hooked him on settling in the area.
WESTWARD HO (O. N. 236434)
West Sound, WA., then sailing with Camp Four Winds-Westward Ho campers.
"Turtleback" land formation in background.
Undated photo courtesy of Nick Exton, Orcas Island.

 "The yawl WESTWARD HO was associated with Four Winds-Westward Ho Camps from the late 1930s through the mid 1950s. The camp being named after the vessel; Westward-Ho camp became the boy's camp when Four Winds-Westward Ho became co-ed. The yawl served the camps for many years longer than any other vessel. Hundreds of children sailed and sang camp songs aboard while learning the ropes and the ways of the sea. After WW II ended, Jack and Bill Helsell prepared WESTWARD HO for the 1949 Trans Pacific Yacht Race. The race was a windy one with above average winds over a majority of the course.  [Miles McCoy was crewing.]
      While in Hawaii WESTWARD HO was met and sailed by a bevy of senior campers from Four Winds. They sailed several day sails in Molokai channel and learned about sailing in brisk conditions.
      Later in August after a pleasant voyage from Hawaii to the coast, WESTWARD HO arrived at the Orcas Island camp to a jolly welcome by some of the Hawaii contingent and camp staff. There was much music, singing, and regaling of sea stories.
      WESTWARD HO sailed for the camps for several more years before being sold in the 1950s to sail off to Hawaii and points south. She has not been spotted in the Pacific Northwest since."

24 September 2011

❖ SHAW ISLAND CLASSIC SAIL RACE ❖ Clips from the Past 40 years

✪  ✪ 1971 ✪  ✪
In the beginning...
20 May 1971
Friday Harbor Journal

"The San Juan Island Yacht Club will sponsor a new sailboat race to be known as the Shaw Island Classic, for a perpetual trophy, the gift of Myrn and Dick Philbrick of Friday Island.
      19 June is the date for this challenge to the sailing and navigational ability of our sailors.
      The course and objective of the race is to circumnavigate Shaw Island, to port or starboard, and direction may be reversed at any time, but Shaw Island must be circumnavigated. [Some] particulars follow:
      Race Committee: Bob Condon, Chairman, Fred Cookman, Everett Johnson, Dick Philbrick, Ed Kennell.
      Start: Between flag at Friday Island dock on Friday Island and flag on Friday Island dock on San Juan Island side.
       Course: From the starting line circumnavigate Shaw Island in either direction to the finish line. The starting line and finish line may be crossed in either direction.
      Finish: same as starting line.
      When: Saturday, 19 June 1971. Ten-minute gun 10:50 am PDT; Five-minute gun 10:55; Start 11:00 and Finish 1800.
      Time Limit: The finish line will not be manned after 1300 hours, and no boat finishing after that time will be counted.
      Race Rules: Boat on a starboard tack and ferry have the right of way. No free-flying sails (such as spinnakers, etc). No handicaps--first boat to finish wins.
      In case of emergency--engine may be started--provided the clutch is disengaged. If necessary to use power, the boat is disqualified.
      Rendezvous: At the conclusion of the race (1800 hrs) rendezvous on Friday Island dock. Potluck dinner at the poolside for Shaw Island Classic participants. The swimming pool and dock facilities are courtesy of the Friday Island Community Club. Participants are requested to bring contributions to the potluck and tableware, dishes, etc. Coffee will be served courtesy of the SIYC."

This is a work-in-progress. We hope to fill in with reports from all past years; if you can help from your scrapbook, please contact us through email to this site, thank you.


1978


      

6-meter OSLO
Hans Otto Giese
Shaw Island Classic 1979
First in Hot Shot Racers Division
viewed here on Opening Day, Seattle, 1942.

11" x 14" original photo from S.P.H.S.©

"The Shaw Island Classic gets more popular each year, and this year drew 139 entries, most of which finished the race despite intermittent light winds.
      For the first half hour, it didn't look as if the boats were going anywhere, and the simultaneous rowboat racers got way out ahead. In fact, the fastest rowboats came in 45 minutes ahead of the first sailboat. Both races started at 11:30 in Friday Harbor and allowed boats to go either way around Shaw and back.
      Sailboat trophies were awarded to seven classes, as follows, according to race chairman Karl Loveland:
      Cruising boats: KINA, Bob Thurston; VALHALLA; STELLA MARIS.
      Modern racing-cruising boats: GEMINI, Jack van Ommen; POISSON SOLUBLE; FREE STYLE.
      Big buckets: SCARAMOUCHE, R. M. Alexander; MARIA; WYANG.
      Hot-shot racers: OSLO, Hans-Otto Giese; MARS; TESS.
      Classic cruising boats: KENAI, Steve Mason; RAIN BIRD; HORNY TOAD.
      Multihulls: PUMA, Gary Boothman; TACHYON; PALACIO.
      The sailors finished out their day with the traditional Rendezvous put on by the Lions Club, and the rowers ended with a salmon bake at South Beach on Shaw."
The Island Record, 15 August 1979
      [The above columnist mentioned seven classes but only six were listed.]


1984
...The most recent incursion of the islands drifted in on the wind. Sleek sailing craft they were, each commanded by a modern-day Odysseus, picking up berths in the concrete rows of Friday Harbor's new docks:
      Some from the big city, some from suburbia, some from the coastal environs. Three million dollars worth of racing machines they were, voyaging in the land of the lotus with equipment not dreamed of by Ulysses.
      Topsides waxed and shining, bottoms scrubbed, sails and rigging ready for the fray, outnumbering local contestants four to one, they were here for the 14th Annual Shaw Classic. They came with a prayer for the favorable wind of Aeolus to strike down the Law of Shaw: "Wind before and after the classic, but seldom during."
       The prayers of the faithful were answered: For my crew, it was the first finish in five classics.
       In 1983, 34 percent finished; this year the record shows 61 percent. Many others finished but none were recorded in the last hour. (Our estimate is 80 percent finished.)
       The right way around Shaw this year was east.
       The unfortunate 25 percent sailing north on the tide found wind problems at Wasp and, on a foul tide, dropped into a bigger hold in Harney Channel. Only a skillful few managed to finish. 
       Our pre-race analysis of the Riddle of Shaw was quickly changed after observing the first start.
      The decision to sail east, and the expertise of crew-member Schwedler, enabled us to place fourth in the blue class.
      In the lee of Lopez, winds were languid in Upright Channel. The smart skippers worked the tidal current close to Shaw to gain Harney.
      By West Sound, the current was strengthening, but the fickle breeze left dozens of boats drifting near Broken Point waiting for a lift.
      Finally, at Bell Island, it came in an exhilarating uplift of spirits long depressed in a stagnant drift.
      Two dozen boats accelerated swiftly through Wasp, picking up the southerly to disgorge through the Cliff Island constriction and shoot out into the channel.
       Beating into a fresh wind on a foul tide skippers selected their shoreline tactic. At Shirt-Tail Reef they were already tacking, some crossing the current line to the San Juan shore, some favoring Shaw.
      Close in, the current was weaker but so was the wind. Boats standing further outgained the harbor faster, some getting the horn in a satisfying sweep across the line.
      For others the wind (so good in the channel), had its last hurrah, dying off in the lee of Brown.
      The last few hundred yards were drifted, sail limp, in a frustrating vignette of slow motion, tossed by the arresting wakes of power boats headlessly intruding on the course.
      It was wonderful. It was the Shaw Classic.
Above column: Up Anchor, Friday Harbor Journal
by Bill Matheson, 22 August 1984.



   1989



Catboat SHARON L. 

Miles and Louellen McCoy,
West Sound, Orcas Island.

Photo by Joanne Fraser, Shaw Island.©




      




















Heavy morning fog and light mid-day winds may have been a factor in keeping the number of participants so low, for the annual event that some years attracts over 150 competitors.
      In fact, the wind itself almost didn't show up for the start of the race, with only a few of the boats making it out of the harbor in the opening half hour of the race.
"It took us an hour and 20 minutes to cross the starting line," Louellen McCoy said. "That was when we were thinking about calling it quits."
      Eventually, however, Louellen and her husband Miles, sailing their 1933 catboat SHARON L, were glad they stayed in the race, finishing first in their category of classic sailboats. 
      Stan Miller, also from Orcas, won first place in the classic cruiser/racers.
      Of all participants sailing this year, one name stands out: Bentzen. This sailing San Juan Island family dominated the day, with two firsts and two thirds.
      In his Hobie 21, VELOCITY, Dan Bentzen was the first boat to cross the finish line this year, in just over 4 hours.
      Dan's father, John Bentzen, was the first of the racing class to finish, in his Etchell 22, THOR."
Report by Tom Hook for the Journal.
August 1989 
      
2010

TIR NA NOG
LOCAL BOAT WINS SHAW CLASSIC


TIR NA NOG,
Sole finisher and WINNER 

the 40th Shaw Island Classic,
7 August 2010.

L-R Back: Kirk Fraser, Marlin Sevy,
Steve Hendricks.

L-R Front: Bill Fraser,
Joanne Fraser, Liz Sevy

The race was marred by rain,
backward winds, and negative currents.

This crew toughed it out!
Photo contributed by Marc Forlenza 
for the Journal of the San Juans






























By Fred Hoeppner (1918-2011)

Journal of the San Juans 
12 
August 2010 

The 40th Shaw Island Classic hosted by the San Juan Island Yacht Club on 7 August had the potential of being one of the most challenging in the event’s history, with forecasted winds of 17 knots and a nearly 10-foot tidal range creating a flooding current of over 2-knots at Reid Rock.
      However, with no wind developing, the fleet was basically hove to. A rumble could be heard as far uptown as Vic’s as the skippers alternately cursed Thor or pleaded for wind. Of 68 starters, only one boat technically finished the race. Bill Fraser in TIR NA NOG out of Shaw Island got the checkered flag.
      The Shaw Island Classic is unique in that there is no fixed course. The Sailing Instructions are quite simple: Start from Friday Harbor, around Shaw Island either way, and back to Friday Harbor. Shaw Island is the only mark and the Sailing Instructions caution against hitting it. If one does hit the island a 360° penalty turn is not required.
      The mass start of 60-70 boats of past years was modified this year by SJIYC Fleet Captain, Peg Gerlock, to provide a start for slower boats followed 15 minutes later by the faster boats. This lessened the near collisions of former years as the boats merged for the start in usually light wind conditions. The paperwork consisting of the Notice of Race and Entry and the Sailing Instructions were very good with an added touch of humor.
      The weather however was a disappointment. Some boats did not get more than a couple of hundred yards from the start. Most with local knowledge chose to go counterclockwise, figuring on riding the counter current on the north side of Turn Island and then catch some breeze coming up San Juan Channel to take them to Upright Channel. Most of those boats hit the flood off Turn Rock—and that was all she wrote.
      Bill Fraser, the winner, said, “I could see early on that this would be a mid-course race.” (Race Instructions provided that if no boat completed the course by 1800, finishes would be taken at mid-course, at 1700). He could see the trouble others were having with the light wind going counterclockwise, so he decided to go clockwise with the flood current and take his chances bucking the current in Wasp Passage. Fraser crossed the midpoint line at 1644, just 16 minutes before the time limit.

10 September 2011

Classic Boats Visiting Deer Harbor ~~~~~ Summer 2010

John Gorton, Deer Harbor sailor, historian, and master photographer, has shared some fine shots of the classic woodies passing through his territory on Orcas Island. 
The photos are from September 2010, for your viewing pleasure, and not for commercial use.
Deer Harbor, September 2010.
Photograph courtesy of John Gorton©
Schooner MARTHA
Deer Harbor, September 2010
Photograph courtesy of John Gorton©
Deer Harbor, September 2010.
Photograph courtesy of John Gorton©
Deer Harbor, September 2010.
Photograph courtesy of John Gorton©
Deer Harbor, September 2010.
Photograph courtesy of John Gorton©
JOSHUA, Deer Harbor, September 2010
Photograph courtesy of John Gorton©
   

Archived Log Entries